Today was all about survival on the Camino. Not so much about dying, just the conditions were so harsh all day long, that you just wanted shelter and refuge. I started from Burgos this morning and just as I finished putting my Panniers on my bike; I felt the first raindrop. I took off hoping for a light sprinkle and that was it. It was not to be. It was ok for the first 15 min trying to find the Camino through Burgos which was difficult; then it really started to rain harder. I took refuge in a pedestrian tunnel for a few minutes to collect myself and put on a heavy windbreaker that will keep rain off for about 15 minutes. Then I started questioning myself. Why did I go out today. Why didn't I check the weather before leaving. Should I just turn around and go a half hour back. I was getting soaked and pulled out my lightweight poncho over my soaked windbreaker which helped but still miserable. The trail was starting to puddle up and turn muddy which made it hard to negotiate. The Camino turned really bad about 12 miles out with mud so thick but hikers and bikers could hardly walk though. Everything on my bike was covered in mud, tires, brakes, derailiers, front shocks. The mud was so thick and slippery, the Brazilian bikers got off and walked about a mile through. Hikers actually fared a bit better slogging throughout but they were pretty miserable too. Everyone just wanted it to end or get out of the weather. Unfortunately, today there were very few towns along the way and the ones along we're 100 person towns and the small Albergue were taken by people seeking shelter. I was desperately looking for a room with nothing available, so I had to ride on another 12 miles to the next town of 1,000 people were I found a room in a small hotel. I was sooo grateful to find a place and so cold and wet, I could hardly make my way to the room. Others came on later with the same gratitude and we all had dinner together tonight. A German woman, the Brazilian bikers, a group of 8 Italians, a few French and a few others that were so grateful for shelter and food. It turned out that one of the Italian guys was having his birthday. So they broke out in song to him, then the Brazilians sang on Portuguese, then the French in French, then the German in German. It was sweet. Then one of the other Italians got up and started singing "O solo mio" in operatic style maybe due to too much wine, but he was actually good and everyone broke out on applause after. What a ending to a less than perfect day on the Camino!
This town I'm in called Castrojeriz seems to really welcome Pilgrims. Very friendly and accommodating. I saw a basket in front of someone's house with things for Pilgrims to take free. A apple, cookies, peanuts. Really sweet.
On another note; I have gratitude for Ivan's comments on my blog. He reminded me that the Camino is not about finishing, but the Way. Meeting people, the hardship that requires you to find your internal strength and face the questions that have always been there. Thanks mate!
The same house that had things set out for Pilgrims, also had some photos and some kind of philosophical, spiritual saying to go along with the pictures. Very poignant. The woman who wrote them did the Camino some time back and had some kind of deep spiritual experience and wanted to share it. Hope you enjoy some of what she had to say.
"I asked to be rich to achieve happiness and was given poverty to become wise. I asked for all things to enjoy life and was given life to enjoy all things. I received nothing of what I asked for, but I was given everything I dreamed of."
Dave
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