Look Right, Look Left...

   Mind not just the gap while in London; but look right, look left whe crossing the road. Being American, you look the wrong way for traffic and can come close to becoming grille art.

  I met Sue and EJ for coffee this morning at Waterloio station. I worked for Sue back in 2000 I think at Sun Microsystems. She and EJ moved to London about a year ago. It was great to catch up. Later, I met up with Ivan and we walked the city; National Museum, Tate Modern, stepped into The George pub, the oldest pub in London from like the mid-1500's I think and had a pint with fish and chips. I burned out in the afternoon and we had an early dinner and called it a night. 

Sue and EJ

  There is one word that describes the British. It's "proper" like a proper cup of tea or a proper pub or proper... For all the sometimes reserved nature, they take pride in many things. 

Proper Fish and Chips

  Anyway, flying home tomorrow, so unless there is some big revalation that happens; this will be my final post for this journey. Again, thanks for coming on it with me and for the good thoughts. 

Buen Camino

Dave

Sounds of London...

   Yikes! I'm in London near Waterloo station. I'm not used to this amount of noise and people. Helicopters flying overhead, ambulances going by, taxi's honking. So much going on... The hotel is outrageously expensive, near $400/night for a mid range place. Shock is setting in. Talk about opposites, I would go for hours by myself in the countryside hearing nothing but the sounds of nature. Staying many nights in smaller towns. 

  The redeeming factor is that I'll spend the day with Ivan tomorrow wandering around. I worked with Ivan a few years ago at Lab. He moved back to the UK about a year ago and he will come into London to meet up. I'm sure museums and beer will be on the agenda. While I'm not a huge fan of beer, it's what you do here. Museums are all good and they have some really good ones here. 

  Back of Friday. Yeah...

Buen Camino

Dave

Plus one...

Today was a quiet day just wandering around Santiago. I took care of some things to make my way back home, getting my bike shipped and booking a room in London tomorrow, but just wandered around passing by the Catherdral square several times. I saw a young woman who was just finishing, fall to her knees and start crying. It was very sweet to watch a Camino moment happening. Many Pilgrims that finish just sit for a while in the middle of the square contemplating their journey. Others who finished the day before like me, sit in the back of the square in the shade of the town hall to do the same. You can tell the pilgrims from this sense of calm they have about them and difficulty getting up when they move. 

  This afternoon, I went to the museum where they had artifacts from the Cathedral from the 14th and 15th century. Then I took a tour of the roof of the Catherdral and saw where pilgrims used to stay and then burn their clothes as a new start after the pilgrimage. They were given a simple tunic to travel back in. 

  I'm looking forward to making my way back to see where I go for here. I still have intense gratitude for being able to complete this. I do feel a sense of calm as well as well-being. 

  I don't know how much longer I'll post. Maybe something along the way home just to complete the journey. Thanks again. 

Buen Camino

Dave

I just lost it....

   I'm here in Santiago. It was a very long day and I wasn't completely sure I would make it. I started riding at 7am without breakfast and stopped for about 10 minutes to get water and down a protein bar. I was really concerned to I had misjudged the distance last night and wouldn't be able to be here. It was 95Km (60 miles) from Portomarin and there were some up and down hills on the way including a climb out of Portomarin. Working against time and increasing pain I made it about 3:30 this afternoon. I sat in front of the Catherdral for maybe 15 minutes and got a bit choked up thinking about what I've been through in France and Spain to make it here. 

  I checked into the hotel San Francisco and "Walking the Camino" is playing tonight here. What a coincidence. Annie O'Neil the one that did Phil's Camino is in it. Anyway I showered and changed and went to get my Compostella certificate. There was a bit of a line and had to smile when it was my turn and I got post 13. I went and a nice guy I would guess in his mid 30's starts examining my credential. He said "You did 95K today!?" and I said yes. He questioned me a bit more about when I started and I found myself telling him about how hard the day was and kind of getting chocked up again. He asked me about my trip from Le Puy and how I pronounced my name.  Finally he gave me my certificate of completion then told me the priest would read my name at the 7:30 mass that night for having completed the Camino from Le Puy. I just lost it. I started tearing up and this poor guy was trying to console me and say it was done and it was time to rest now. I'm tired. 

   Looking back, it's been such a journey. It was somewhere over 1,008 miles of trail, mud, rain, heat, getting lost, being alone, being with the group in France. It seems like I started a year ago, and the Chemin there is so different and in many ways so much harder than the Spanish Camino. 

  I am starting my way home on Wednesday to London and Friday back in California. I don't know what it all means but glad I did it. Thanks again for your thoughts, prayers, emails and grace from you back home. 

Buen Camino

Dave

Starting out this morning

Arrived in the Catherdral square 

Crypt of Saint James

Winding down the Way...

   Ok, I said there were no more passes but not being fully awake at 7am and the sun is just rising and you've had no breakfast; a 600' climb feels like a pass. I stopped after climbing for breakfast about 8 am at some small place in the mountains and had eggs and toast. 

  The tourists have arrived! The cathedral  in Santiago issues certificates of completion of the Camino to those who do at least 100Km or about 62 miles. This means that the city Sarria is ground zero for tourist busses who drop tourist pilgrims off with day packs, transport their luggage to a hotel some number of miles away and sometimes even bus them to the next town after they have their stamp on their credential. It's a bit frustrating trying to finish the Camino among packs of these day trippers. I'm glad they are trying to have some kind of experience there, but trying to get by them in groups of 20-30 is hard for me as a biker but also for the experienced hikers who have done the whole thing. They kind of take over the Camino at places to eat and stay. Ok, enough whining...

  I think there is a fair chance I will arrive tomorrow in Santiago about the time you all wake up Monday. It's not for sure, but I think it will happen. I'm ready. Last time I was really regretting the end, but having started in Le Puy with all the trials and tribulations, I can honestly say I'm ready to arrive. I'll keep you posted. There is a part that has some regrets of not connecting more with people this trip than last. I guess I was just dealing with my own stuff. I also regret not having more of a spiritual experience, but again maybe I got what I had hoped for; some physical and emotional healing from my accident. 

  Thanks for reading my daily bababling and for following on the trip with me. There were some dark moments in France after losing my group there and feeling pretty isolated in my daily hardship. 

Buen Camino

Dave

Cows on the Camino

Early morning climb

Camino tourists 

What every pilgrim wants to see, less than 100km (62 miles) to Santiago

Portomarin whete I am tonight

Double your pleasure; double your fun....

  No, I'm not talking about Doublemint gum or even a threesome. I mean two tough passes in two days. Yesterday was Ferro Cruz, the highest pass at 5,000 ft and today was the steepest climb pass at O'Cebrerio which tops out at 4,000 ft. Today the climb was going great. Cool morning conditions and shade. It was like this was going to be work, but doable. It turned really steep and exposed about 5 miles out, and the trail 2.5 miles until the top was steep and I had to hike the bike. I can't ever remember sweating that much. It makes me wonder just how on earth I did it 3 years ago in the rain and snow.

   Anyway, done! I had lunch and a beer at the top; changed my jersey and thought the 12 miles to the next town would be downhill cake. It turned out there were several, hundred foot climbs and descents along the ridge before the down. With the afternoon sun. It added insult to the injury. 

  I'm in a small town Tricastella at the bottom and scored a private room in a hostal also known as Alburge. Did some laundry in a sink and just enjoying sitting on a late afternoon. I'm probably 2-3 days away from Santiago. I don't mind saying I'm ready to be home. I'm also aware to not rush there and ignore my last few days on this very long journey I've been on. 

   It seems like I've been gone a year because I see so much and experience so much in a single day. I think it's been 32 days so far. 

   There is a young singing group from Spain doing part of the Camino that sings at night to earn money for their trip. Brought a smile to my face...

Buen Camino

Dave

Villafranca....

It was hot. I am tired. I'm alive. 

  That was going to be my blog tonight, but I found just a bit of energy to talk about the day. 

  There was good weather when I got on the Camino this morning. I didn't sleep well last night, I don't know why; tea in the afternoon, my mind on climbing the pass or weather after that freak thunderstorm last night, tired of putting in days on the Camino and missing home I don't know why. Sometimes you just don't know. 

  Climbing the pass to Ferro Cruz was just grinding uphill. There was wind, but I ended up being grateful for it as it keep me cool and kept the black flies away, 20 at a time that would swarm as soon as I was in the lee of the wind. I got there just as the sun came out from a cloud cover. An Italian priest was conducting a blessing off to the side and then pilgrims took turns taking pictures at the cross and sometimes placing something there. 

   The ride down was braking all the way as I decended nearly 4000 ft. My brakes overheated and started squealing, but holding. Even though there is brake matrerial left on the pads, the heat somehow makes them loud even after the downhill. I swapped the rear pads out  in Villafranca and I think that will fix it. 

  I'm in Villafranca tonight. I like this town and I can't tell you why. It's smallish, has some medieval buildings and I'm staying in a B&B that is very comfortable. Good memories of this place from last time. 

  The last pass lays ahead, maybe as soon as tomorrow. I'm not sure I'm ready for it to tell you the truth. The Camino is taking an accumulated toll on me and having just done one today, I would hope for more time. In addition, this pass was the one I got snowed on last time. No chance of that this time, it's too hot; but somehow the negative experience is sticking with me. 

   I decided to eat at a group hostel tonight even though I'm not staying there. I kind of wanted company and experience a group.

Buen provecho. 

Dave

Pilgrims coming up to Ferro Cruz

This is a rest stop and beds run by a Brazillian guy a couple miles down from the iron cross

Knights Templer castle. They were responsible for protecting pilgrims along the way

Part that was nice, but hot

Marker

Hostal where I'm having dinner

Main square at Villafranca